Change of the Seasons

May Long Weekend approached rather fast.  With ski partners (well, the one remaining ski partner) out of commission and warm weather, I got together with Yves last minute to do some rock climbing in Jasper.  Frenchie and Yves' girlfriend Jessica came along too, so we had a nice even number.  Three days on rock was sure to kick me into summer, and probably embarrass me after a winter-length hiatus from the rock gym.  Oh well...

On Saturday we headed to Juno Wall.  I had been hearing the praises sung about this crag for ages from my buddy Dan, so I would finally see what all the hype was about.  Overall, it's a real nice crag, super well set up (bomber coldshuts or chains at the top of every route, liberally bolted) and it has great views to the West.  I led and 8 and a 9, but only toproped the 10s we set up 'cause I wasn't exactly feeling in the groove yet.  I spent most of my downtime staring over at Pyramid Mountain's North Face and dreaming about swooshing down on perfect corn.  So much for changing into summer mode!

Pyramid Mountain from Juno Wall.  The real question is whether it will earn a coveted place in my next book, Wiggles in the Canadian Rockies.

Working up a 10a.  Real short crux at the roofy bit.

The Rocky River Valley from Juno

After steaks and lots of other food at the campsite, we crushed some beers and then called it an early night.

Sunday found us at The Lost Boys crag on 93A.  This was the highlight of the weekend.  We pulled up and had the whole place to ourselves until well after lunch.  We forgot the topo, so while Chris ran back to the car for it, Yves led up a 10b/c.  Yeah, that's right, we warm up on b/c's.  Once he got back, we set up an 8 before I took my turn at leading the b/c.  That was pretty sketchy for me, I found the last clip real awkward and skipped it in favor of jugs and the chains above.  Sketchy move but it felt easier and safer than trying to clip from a crimper while pumped.  Yves also led "Iggy Pop and the Three Stooges", a 10c.  He had a good time of it, so when he pressured me into TRing it, I planned to meander up to the crux and then lower off.  It turns out that this one is nice and juggy, and with my long arms I found it real easy.  I'll have to lead it out next time...

Top Roping the 8 (Social Foreplay)

Yves on Iggy Pop and the Three Stooges

Pulling through the roof.  Looks tough but the holds are HUGE

Monday, we headed to Rock Gardens and took it pretty easy.  I didn't get any photos.  It's a nice crag that's close to town.  Overall, we got a good tour of the Jasper crags, and I've got a lengthy list of to-do climbs now.  Can't wait to get out again!