Game On at Moraine Lake

I found out late this week that the overtime shift on Saturday which had been rumored earlier in the week wouldn't happen.  Seeing as I had already shot down all rock climbing plans, I got in touch with Pete and we planned some skiing action.  The Moraine Lake road had just opened up, and we had an itch for Eiffel Peak.

I got into Canmore around 9:30, but didn't get to sleep until 11.  Awake again at 2:30 AM (!) we were at the trailhead and walking by 4:30.  Up to Larch Valley, we ran into Dave Sutherland and partner.  They were getting far radder than us on Mt. Temple.  Serious props to those guys, I'd like to see the line they took sometime.  That's definitely a line for the "hit list".  Anyway, we worked onto the face and switchbacked almost all the way to the top.  We bootpacked the very last session, making it a full on skimo event.  Beautiful views from the top, including the Goodsirs, the Vaux Icefield and of course the Ten Peaks.  Lounged around for a bit, scoped some other rad lines, then ripped the skis off and enjoyed sweet powder down the face.  Awesome conditions, awesome weather, truly a great peak done in good style.

Sunrise on the ridge below Eiffel

Temple

Being a slow-ass deadweight does have photographic benefits.

Valley of the Ten Peaks from Eiffel's summit.

Hungabee

Deltaform with our run in front.  Powder on the last weekend of May!

Waiting for the TGR cameras to get rolling before dropping in.

After swooshing down to the base of the face, we turned towards Wasatch (Wastache?) pass and went around back for some couloir action.  My 3 hours of sleep was starting to show itself, so I only did half the couloir.  It's another nice line that I'd like to try again.  Maybe I should have utilized an energy gel and done it proper?  Everything is 20/20 in hindsight...

Skiing the Eiffel/Pinnacle Couloir

Race ski action

Feeling the vert

Looking back at Eiffel.  Nice line, not steep or overly technical.  Just awesome.

I think that'll be the capstone to my 11/12 ski season.  Overall here are the stats.
Number of Days: 27
Number of Races: 2 (11th overall)
Biggest Vertical: 2000m

Goal is to beat all of those categories next year.  That'll be tough considering that it will be 4th year and crazy, but I'm going to try.  Now onto summer...

Change of the Seasons

May Long Weekend approached rather fast.  With ski partners (well, the one remaining ski partner) out of commission and warm weather, I got together with Yves last minute to do some rock climbing in Jasper.  Frenchie and Yves' girlfriend Jessica came along too, so we had a nice even number.  Three days on rock was sure to kick me into summer, and probably embarrass me after a winter-length hiatus from the rock gym.  Oh well...

On Saturday we headed to Juno Wall.  I had been hearing the praises sung about this crag for ages from my buddy Dan, so I would finally see what all the hype was about.  Overall, it's a real nice crag, super well set up (bomber coldshuts or chains at the top of every route, liberally bolted) and it has great views to the West.  I led and 8 and a 9, but only toproped the 10s we set up 'cause I wasn't exactly feeling in the groove yet.  I spent most of my downtime staring over at Pyramid Mountain's North Face and dreaming about swooshing down on perfect corn.  So much for changing into summer mode!

Pyramid Mountain from Juno Wall.  The real question is whether it will earn a coveted place in my next book, Wiggles in the Canadian Rockies.

Working up a 10a.  Real short crux at the roofy bit.

The Rocky River Valley from Juno

After steaks and lots of other food at the campsite, we crushed some beers and then called it an early night.

Sunday found us at The Lost Boys crag on 93A.  This was the highlight of the weekend.  We pulled up and had the whole place to ourselves until well after lunch.  We forgot the topo, so while Chris ran back to the car for it, Yves led up a 10b/c.  Yeah, that's right, we warm up on b/c's.  Once he got back, we set up an 8 before I took my turn at leading the b/c.  That was pretty sketchy for me, I found the last clip real awkward and skipped it in favor of jugs and the chains above.  Sketchy move but it felt easier and safer than trying to clip from a crimper while pumped.  Yves also led "Iggy Pop and the Three Stooges", a 10c.  He had a good time of it, so when he pressured me into TRing it, I planned to meander up to the crux and then lower off.  It turns out that this one is nice and juggy, and with my long arms I found it real easy.  I'll have to lead it out next time...

Top Roping the 8 (Social Foreplay)

Yves on Iggy Pop and the Three Stooges

Pulling through the roof.  Looks tough but the holds are HUGE

Monday, we headed to Rock Gardens and took it pretty easy.  I didn't get any photos.  It's a nice crag that's close to town.  Overall, we got a good tour of the Jasper crags, and I've got a lengthy list of to-do climbs now.  Can't wait to get out again!