Ice Clime Bing

Even though I'm no good at it, I've been slowly starting to ice climb.  I've traditionally skied straight through the winters, but ice climbing is a necessary skill in the summer and something that I've wanted to work on for a while.  That got me motivated to start, and since then I've been hooked on it.  It challenging, scenic and cool.  Although, I will admit that it feels a bit like pussyfooting when you only have a 10 minute approach and end up pissing around in one little area.  That aside though, I think I'll end up climbing more as time goes by.  It would be nice to work up to leading ability in a few years.

This weekend, Erich's ACC trip was sort of thrown a curve ball when his coleader Justin broke his leg. I can't lead on ice, but I volunteered to step in if Erich changed it to a top rope trip.  That was the original plan, but since the participant list suddenly shrunk, we ended up climbing a multipitch on Saturday anyway!

After forgetting my harness (twice!), we got rolling out of Edmonton.  It was just three of us, Erich, Louise and myself.  We got into Rampart and BS'ed a bit before calling it a night.  We were starting up the trail around 8:30, on the approach for Meltout.  I was getting some major chirps about my ski boots, but those soon were quieted when I broke trail up to the climb.  It was a great time in the warm weather and sticky ice.  The second pitch, though, was rather "soggy" as Erich put it.  I climbed a significant portion of it holding my tools by the head, the ice was that sticky.

Erich on the second pitch of Meltout

Me at the first belay

The view across the valley, towards the Columbia Icefield.  Surprisingly little snow in the area.

Louise finishing up the last pitch

We were done early, so we sat around at the bottom and enjoyed the sun for a while, then went back to the hostel.  I read for a while, the other two had naps.  After a HUGE dinner (I've never felt so full), we headed out to the sauna which, although built for hobbits, was real nice.  I think Erich and I were in there from about 9-12, pounding pils and BS'ing some more.

On Sunday we stopped on the way home at the Cline River Gallery which was pretty cool.  Lots of interesting lines in there, I definitely want to go back.  I got mega pumped on the 4+ there, even though it was apparently in about 3+ or 4 shape.  It was long and tiring to swing on.  I clearly have to work on my technique so that I'm more efficient...

The Cline River Gallery.  Some walkable ice on the left with some steeper short bits above, and then the mixed overhang in the middle.

Where we spent most of our day.  It's apparently a 4+ but it was definitely is 4 shape or easier.  It kicked my ass, I have to get in climbing shape!