Tuesday 17 January 2012

First Time Ice Climbing

This past weekend I tagged along on an ACC trip and went ice climbing for my first time!  I'd been wanting to try for a while and this seemed like a good chance to do that.  Although the trip was officially on the ACC schedule, it was practically full before it even was released.  Luckily, JP was leading it so I managed to snag a spot early.

I drove down with Chris and Damon on Friday and we got to the Shunda Creek hostel pretty quick.  Everybody showed up and soon the group chemistry got going.  A bunch of friends in a hostel, and one crazy french guy to spawn numerous jokes meant that we were a relatively loud group!  Saturday we went to Balfour Wall along the parkway, just south of Saskatchewan River Crossing.  A short hike in brought us to the waterfalls.  As soon as I saw them, I was stoked.  Top ropes were set up and soon enough I was headed up my first pitch of ice!  It was a bit scary and surprisingly different from rock climbing.  The more I climbed, the more I liked it.  Eventually I even managed to head up the WI 4 on the extreme left side of the wall.  It was fun, taxing and exciting all together, but with quite a few takes for me.
Kevin leading up the WI 2 which ended up being my first climb.
The drive back to the hostel was a pretty nasty one, heavy snowfall meant that we drove down the highway between 40 and 60 kph, keeping a tire on the rumble strip.  We got back though, and soon tore into some pasta, garlic bread, salad and great desert.  Oh we also had 11 bottles of wine between the 9 of us.  We went for a quick dip in the hot tub and then hurried off to bed.

Sunday dawned cold and clear.  We decided to head to Owen Creek and see how long we could endure the cold.  This venue was a little different in the way that we hung out above the falls and lowered in to climb them.  Once the sun peeked out, the area warmed up a bit.  I still climbed while wearing everything piece of clothing in my possession.  Once we had all had our share, we headed back to the hostel, picked up the ladies and drove back home.
Damon (bottom) and Dave (top) climbing in Owen Creek
What an awesome weekend with a great group of people!  It was a sweet time just hanging around, climbing and having pure fun.  I really hope I can get out a few more weekends with the gang, I sure enjoyed this trip!  Thanks to JP and Dave for leading the trip, and Kevin for bravely leading a lot of ice!

Saturday 7 January 2012

Avalanche Involvement, January 5, 2012


Thursday (Jan. 5, 2012) I went for a day of ski touring in the Black Prince area, and we had an incident.  We were skiing a smaller hill on the West side of the highway (Purple Prince), NNE of Mt. Black Prince just North of Warspite Creek (Lat,Lon 50.721351,-115.230875).  The slope faces NE, is about 400m high and is fully treed.  We followed the uptrack (set by a couple of guys on a dawn patrol) to the top of the knob.  We saw that the new snow had been blown over the ridge and onto our ski run.  We dug a pit, and found 3 medium to hard layers 50, 60 and 70 cm. down, sudden planar failures.  This pit was dug very close to the ridge and so we took into account that these layers could be due to wind effect.   We skied a line nearly directly above our car and then hiked back up again.  This time, Peter (my partner for the day and a local) thought about heading further along the ridge to try and sample another line which he had seen from the road.  Walking along the ridge we found the slope to be very steep at the start and slightly corniced.  A small ski cut along the top of the slope produced nothing, so Peter dropped in.  The line was out of my sight.

The next thing I noticed was that Peter was yelling.  It was muffled through the trees and I wasn't sure if he was hooting for joy or in trouble.  I was split as to whether he had triggered something or whether he was just having fun.  I saw small spurts of powder fly up.  "Maybe he's just getting some face shots" I thought.  Then I saw the entire line of trees below sway downhill in unison.  Peter was still yelling.  Now I was sure it was an avalanche.

I kept waiting at the top, sort of dumbfounded.  He had clearly triggered the slide below the ski cut.  So could I venture out there safely?  I decided to throw all caution to the wind, screamed HELP a couple times and then skied after him.  Just out of sight from my vantage point, Pete's tracks led straight over a crown, about knee deep.  But the weird thing was that knee deep was the depth to the ground.  He had clearly hit a shallow spot on on the nose and ended up smack in the middle of the slide.  Thank goodness he was still yelling, I thought.  I never even pulled out my beacon.  I carefully made my own way down, survival skiing through the thick forest on the skier's right, and eventually found him in a copse of small trees, sitting on the top and complaining of a nosebleed.

Pete was unharmed save for a good slit down his chin.  I pulled out the first aid kit and proceeded to try and stick any number of bandages to his bearded chin, but nothing would work.  I was trying to use steri-strips to seal up the cut, but they woudn't stick to the hair at all.  I settled on making a "chin strap" like those seen on Football helmets, from some medical tape and a big bandage.  My gauze was suspiciously missing from my kit.  He wouldn't stop bleeding, and he had lost all his gear (except his backpack and helmet).  I had him drink a bottle of fruit juice, take an energy gel and two ibuprofen's.  I checked both his legs for breaks even though he said he was fine.

My first plan of escape was for me to go in front, giving Peter my poles and try to set a track that he could walk on.  I strapped our packs together and carried both.  That way we could hopefully get out quick.  Just as I was starting, Pete noticed one of his skis and a pole wedged into a tree.  I went and got them, then kept moving.  Pete wanted to stick around and look for his other ski, but I wanted him to get moving before he went all woozy from the blood loss.  So there we were, on a 35 degree slope, traversing towards the parking area.  I was trying to make as nice of a track out as I could so that peter could stay upright on one ski.  We slowly moved down and South towards the uptrack.  It seemed to take ages, the packs were outrageously difficult to ski with, and pete was still bleeding pretty heavily.

We finally hit the uptrack and another group we had seen 10 minutes before the slide was just getting ready to head back up.  They changed their plans and helped us out to the car.  At one point, one of the snowboarders made a sled from his board and towed Pete over the flat ground.  I went ahead at the last minute and warmed up the car, and then got ready to play ambulance.

We got to the Canmore hospital at 3:45, my best estimate of the avalanche time would be somewhere around 12:15-12:30.  An hour and a half there, and Pete sported 11 stitches.  The most surprising thing about this incident was how hard it was to get to the road, even though we were in plain sight and only a few hundred meters above, and the victim was very mobile.  It probably took a solid 2 to 2 and a half hours to get from the debris field to the car.

I'm writing this to get it onto paper.  The main thing is that we ignored some of the forecaster's advice, and also got unlucky.  Forecasters had warned against skiing N, NE and E aspects, we skied a NE aspect.  The slide started not on a known weak layer, but rather on a rogue shallow spot.  Why that area was so shallow is beyond me, it's right below the ridgeline and on the leeward side.  Heck right above it was a small cornice!  The slide was small, but it still ripped out all available terrain.  Trees are what stopped it from propagating further.  We skied below treeline, where hazard was rated MODERATE but we still were skiing steep lines with open areas here and there.  We pushed things a bit and got bitten for doing so.  I wasn't standing where I had a good view of the run, but rather where it would be easiest to enter the run.  My first aid skills are also lacking.  I'm trained in the lifeguarding stream, and all I've learned to do is to stem any bleeding, make the victim comfortable and wait for an ambulance.  I need to take some wilderness first aid.  I also need to get a helmet for touring, Peter's had a good ding from hitting a tree.

Let's all be safe out there.  I believe that I was a bit complacent due to the below treeline location, and didn't really think everything through.  I'll never treat below treeline skiing the same.  Peter wrote up his own version at his blog, which can be read here, it's a good read.